TRIP REPORT: South Lake Peaks Traverse

This was a fun ridge traverse of 4 peaks based out of the South Lakes trailhead in Bishop. I’ve also heard it called Hurd to Johnson Traverse. The route sticks to mostly 3rd class with long sections of 2nd class, plus some 4th and low 5th class (especially if you stick to the ridge). 

 

Difficulty: 5th Class, Grade IV

Distance: 11 miles (~2 miles of Ridgeline)

Elevation Gain: 4,850 feet

 

Overview of the route (view from on top of hurd)

Approach:

We opted to start at Mt Johnson and make our way back to Hurd due to snow conditions (this is the opposite of how it’s described in other trip reports). We took the Bishop Pass trailhead and then turned right on the Treasure Lakes trail. Many snow and high water crossings slowed us down a bit, but in a regular summer season, it would be quick going. At the back side of the lakes, we continued on snow towards Mt. Johnson. 

 

moving above Treasure Lakes towards Mt. Johnson

 

Route: 

Due to the unique snow conditions in this record year (July 2023), a component of the technical part was the snow to gain the ridge. The northwest ridge of Mt. Johnson had signs of wet avalanches and rather large bergschrunds. Between that and the early clouds, we opted to gain the ridge beyond the summit. Crampons and an ice axe were needed, as gaining the snow in this cirque was probably steeper than it would have been on the main peak. 

From here we were able to pick up speed and quickly hit the top of Trapezoid peak. Little did I know this was the 1st of 3 times I would summit that particular peak in 10 days. The views toward Mt Goode are spectacular.

 

Looking at the top of Trapezoid. To the right in shadow is a slab decent to a notch and then fun 3rd class ridge climbing.

 

From the top of Trapezoid Peak, you need to downclimb some exposed 3rd class to a notch and then continue on exposed 3/4th for a bit until it eases off. This was some of the more enjoyable parts. 

 

Eventually, you will make your way to the notch between Peak 12,192 and Trapezoid Peak. This is where the route officially feels like a slog as it was sandy class 2 most of the way to the top of Peak 12,192. Perhaps this is a good reason to do the route from Hurd to Mt Johnson. Then you can walk quickly down the sand!

 

A view of the saddle between Trapezoids long ridge and peak 12,192

 

From the summit of peak 12,192, you begin to climb 4th and 3rd class towards Hurd. If you stick to the ridge in the final section, you will be in solid 5th-class terrain for a bit. I found this really enjoyable, but you could try to descend off the true crest to make it less technical. 

 

Decent:

Once on top of Hurd, you have many options for decent. Sticking to the ridge would be the most technical. Most people descend sandy slopes west to Treasure Lakes or east to Long Lake. We opted for Long Lake hoping to avoid the cold-water crossings. After crossing Long Lake, you are officially on a trail again with a short hike back to the car.

It did rain on us for part of the hike out.

 

Snow and ice at Long Lake looking towards Mt. Goode

Gear:

We had an ice axe

crampons helmet

a small rack

a rope  

The ice axe and crampons were absolutely necessary for the snow approach. We never used the rope. While I think there are sections where it could be nice (close to Hurd), it never felt necessary. Keep in mind that both my partner and I have a climbing background and are good with exposure. With lower snow, it could be possible to avoid any extra gear, and just wear approach shoes. 

 

Wanna Try?

This felt like a reasonable outing for those experienced with backcountry navigation who also have some background in rock movement. If you choose to do it early season or on big snow years I would also add snow movement in terrain up to 40-50 degrees. 

You can read other details at Mountain Project. 

 

 

 

 

The summit of Trapezoid celebratory handstand

My Traverse to the South Pole

Let’s just call this a long road trip. Though the length isn’t what makes it so interesting but rather the location (The South Pole!), mode of travel, and reasons behind the trip. 

 

How: Tractor traverse 

Where: Across multiple Ice Shelves, up the Trans-Antarctic and onto the Polar Plateau, eventually reaching the Geographic South Pole. 

Why: Delivery of fuel and other essential supplies for science projects at the South Pole. 

My job: Field Safety Coordinator for the US Antarctic Program

What made this stint of contract work so interesting is the unique mix of skills needed. My work was a mix of traditional mountaineering, tractor rigging, white-out navigation, field medic, tractor operator, and science tech.  

 

I actually spent the first part of my season training the team in crevasse rescue. Then I went on a special trip to prepare one section of the route, before actually starting this traverse. 

 

Sounds like a lot?? It was! It’s hard to share the scale of this journey but below are some great insights. 

 

Mt Beazley- one of the most stunning sites along the way. I wish we could have stayed here for days.

The Route

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TRIP REPORT: Treasure Peak

Climbing Treasure Peak’s Northwest Ridge was such a great half-day objective. The hiking was pleasant, the views spectacular, and the summit climb was engaging and fun.  We snuck this in during thunderstorm season, so we got a pre-dawn start.  But that wouldn’t be necessary if the weather is good. 

 

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TRIP REPORT: White Mountain to Boundary Peak

This was an ultralight overnight traverse from White Mountain and Boundary Peak in the White Mountains on the California/Nevada border.  It covers 30 miles. There’s 7 miles of trail on either end and 16 miles of cross country travel between each peak.  It was one of my favorite hikes of the season.  The traverse across this range was easier and more beautiful than I had anticipated.

Cowboy camping on White Mountain

Our bivvy spot for the night

I did the traverse in early June in a low snow year.  There were very few patches of snow.  The creek at our mid-point was running and provided our water resupply.

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TRIP REPORT: Norman Clyde Peak – Northeast Ridge

Norman Clyde Peak has a huge striking arete and summit pinnacle.  It’s visible from Temple Crag and is found along the Palisade Traverse.  However, it doesn’t get that much traffic as it’s a long approach and stiff scrambling.  I found this trip to be a solid day effort.  It could be more pleasant as an overnighter. 

I’ve had this peak on my mind since I was a park ranger at Devils Postpile and gave campfire talks about Norman Clyde.  It was good to finally get a day on my own in these wild and beautiful mountains as I climbed the Northeast Ridge of Norman Clyde Peak.

 

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TRIP REPORT: East Arete of Mount Humphreys

This peak is a part of the Bishop skyline.  If you spend enough time here, eventually you’ll want to climb this picturesque peak.  The East Arete of Mount Humphreys is considered a classic route for those inclined to rock climbing.  It’s a big day with a lot of elevation gain and ridge climbing.  I enjoyed the climb, and found it to be a full day’s effort of mountain climbing.

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Trip Report: Laurel Mountain

This is a classic sierra scramble up a stunning peak.  It’s different than many of the backcountry climbs for a few different reasons.  For one, it’s not really backcountry- you are less than an hour from your car and the route starts barely off the trail.   The route itself is mostly slab climbing/walking up a large face for thousands of feet, and the much of the rock is limestone and shale.   This feels different than the granite ridge climbing often experienced in the high sierra.

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Why I love Antarctica

Reason # 1

The continent itself.

Antarctica has to be one of the least accessible places in the world.  Just being here and getting to stand on the continent is a pretty special feeling.  Knowing that I get to see things most people will never have a chance to see.  My very first season I worked at the South Pole station.  As I flew from McMurdo (the main station) to the pole, I could hardly comprehend the scale of what I saw.  At times glaciers span practically to the horizon on both sides.  There were so many more dramatic peaks and valleys than I had imagined.

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