Petite Griffon

This outing brought all smiles!  Petite Griffon is a striking pinnacle nestled between Mount Abbot and Mount Mills.  I am always willing to hike far for routes with good names or striking lines and this was no exception.  My GPS reported a little over 11 miles roundtrip for 2 pitches of climbing.   #Worthit

The hike is half on a trail and straight forward with most of the elevation gain coming at the end.  The climb up the couloir required crampons and an ice ax. We attached aluminum crampons to our approach shoes to save weight.  This was the outer limit of what soft shoes could handle as far as steepness and firm snow and ice. Earlier in the season, the snow might be softer and lower angle, any later and it would be blue ice with rocks melting out and cutting loose – sketchy!  The last section of rock to gain the notch was awkward 4th class, and using the rope you already hauled up for the climb might make sense here.  The 5.9 variation had some great clean cracks, but there’s also a 5.7 variation for those wanting to keep it more mellow. Bring additional cord in case you need to replace or build new rap stations anywhere on the route or descent down the couloir.


I think this is a nice mixed climb option. It could pair well with overnight and summit of Mt Abbot or as a day trip.


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